But it's not an expense I want to take on right now. I've considered the idea of installing a second unit in the attic, turning my home into a dual zoned setup. In addition, I would love a way to re-route / re-purpose that ductwork - somehow - so I can still feed the rooms just above with the proper heating and cooling. I'm looking into the possibility of removing a load bearing wall (that runs parallel - right along side this duct work) between my living room and another 'sitting' room that's rarely used. It's THIS ductwork that I just can't stand, hanging from my first floor ceiling. There's ductwork (feed and return) that runs perpendicular to the floor joists in the basement (feeding the first floor) and similar ductwork running perpendicular to the second floor joists that then branches off and feeds the second level. Its central HVAC system is located in the basement with a main column that extends up well into the second floor. I own an early 90's construction Colonial in Maryland. The real number you need is the resulting radon level and if that is too high, then you need more depressurization. Oh, there should be a guide right next to that manometer, but it is probably calibrated in inches of water column and "1" is a lot. Also, if you have a lot of water a lot of the time, consider a a back-up power option for those occasions when the lights go out. The pumps will run longer but less often, however, the max height for the water should prevent the drainage system from becoming blocked.Īs a side note, do what you can from the outside to direct surface water away from the house to lessen the load the sump pumps have to carry. As for the deep sump pits, the deeper the better (within reason). With that much water below the slab you will be limiting the path for air flow. As long as you are getting a negative pressure, any radon gas below the slab will be venting out through the system. Just an opinion here, but IMO it would be more important to be depressurizing more area of the basement than to have a greater pressure. Why do the sump pit is deep as it is (seems to be 22in. In terms of drawing radon out of the basement, is this setting (one pump stops, one pump runs) good or bad?īy the way, I also have the secondary question about sump pump. Good thing: The suction of the system is increased. My thinking was:īad thing: Radon can not be drawn from part of underground under the basement related to the drain pipe to the not running pump because the water already filled the pipe. I don't know if this is a good thing there seems to be one good and one bad thing. Then, it came an interesting observation: the suction of the radon system increases a bit, from 1.5 to 2. I believe that the drain pipe is connected to the radon mitigation system because the covers of the two sump pits are completely sealed. At this level, the drain pipe is completely submerged under the water. I notice that if I stop one pump, the water level in that sump pit raises to level about 5 in. Then, a question came up when I play with my two sump pumps. When the difference between the two levels are higher, the more suction the system has which is probably a good thing?
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |